Storing Skis: How to Protect the Base Over Summer

The ski base is made of UHMWPE (polyethylene) — a plastic that oxidizes when exposed to air unprotected. Over the summer months, an unwaxed base dries out, turns gray, and loses its glide properties.

A thick layer of wax acts as a protective sealant. It seals the pores of the base and prevents oxygen from penetrating and degrading the base. Regular waxing preserves the elasticity and glide properties of the base for years.

The consequences of improper storage: A gray, dull base that feels rough and barely glides. Repair then requires multiple base waxings or even a machine base grind.

Storage preparation takes 15–20 minutes per pair:

• 1. Clean thoroughly: Clean the base with the hot-scrape method: Iron on soft cleaning wax, scrape off immediately while warm. Remove old wax residue and dirt.
• 2. Care for the edges: Remove rust with fine sandpaper (600 grit). Optionally apply a thin layer of edge oil or rust protector.
• 3. Iron on soft base wax: Use a soft, universal base wax (e.g., Holmenkol Alpha Mix Yellow or HWK LX Basewax Warm). Soft wax penetrates the base best.
• 4. Apply a thick layer: Unlike normal waxing, apply an extra thick layer here. Iron over the base multiple times until a rich, even wax layer forms.
• 5. DO NOT scrape: This is the crucial difference: The wax layer stays on over summer. Don't scrape, don't brush. The layer is the protection.

Store waxed skis correctly:

• Dry: Not in a basement with high humidity. Moisture promotes rust on the edges.
• Cool: Ideally 10–20°C. Not in a hot attic — extreme heat above 50°C can warp the base and delaminate the bonding.
• Standing or lying down: Both work. Standing saves more space.
• Release the binding: Slightly loosen the spring tension of the binding (screwdriver beside the toe piece). This relieves the spring over summer and preserves its tension. Fully tensioned springs can lose spring force over months — this can lead to incorrect release values.
• No direct sunlight: UV radiation damages the base and topsheet.

When the new season begins:

• 1. Scrape off the wax layer: Completely remove the summer wax layer with the plexiglass scraper.
• 2. Brush out roughly: Nylon brush, 15–20 passes, to remove all wax residue from the structure.
• 3. Check the base: Does the base look rich and dark? Good — the wax did its job. Gray spots indicate oxidation and need an additional wax pass.
• 4. Wax fresh: Apply temperature-specific wax for the first conditions, scrape and brush normally.
• 5. Check the edges: Inspect for rust or damage. Sharpen if needed.

Tip: Which wax you need for the first piste conditions is calculated by the wax advisor on raceday.ski.

Avoid these mistakes:

• Not waxing at all: The biggest mistake. An unprotected base oxidizes over months and becomes brittle.
• Too thin a wax layer: Better too much than too little. The layer needs to last the entire summer.
• Storing wet: Let skis dry thoroughly after the last day. Residual moisture under the wax leads to corrosion.
• Leaving in a hot car: Temperatures above 50°C can damage the base and bonding.

The storage routine applies to all ski types. Cross-country skis with their delicate grind pattern benefit even more from the summer wax layer. Touring skis, which are frequently exposed to moisture and dirt, need particularly thorough cleaning before waxing.

For cross-country skis with a grip zone (fish scale, skin): Only wax the glide section — the grip zone is degraded by wax.

20 minutes of effort in spring saves you hours of repair work in autumn.